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iFactory3D One
Modifications
Replaced direct drive with Phaetus/TriangleLab hotend
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<blockquote data-quote="rwiggins" data-source="post: 340" data-attributes="member: 124"><p>After having numerous heat breaks break, due to when the printer would finish a part, the hot end would drop enough to bend them, which meant I could use one heat break for one print then would experience the nozzle now hitting parts as it was printing, oozing of material out of cracks in the heat breaks, this is after going through many of them trying to adjust for bed height, stop gcode, realign gantry's and other ideas that did not pan out. I replaced the hot end assembly with a dragon, which has rods to re-enforce the hot end assembly at the heat break, is all metal, and rated for 500C temps. I relocated the extruder to be a bowden setup, using the old volcano block since the nozzle threads match the fitting threads needed for the tubing, I couldn't use the threads meant for the heat break in the extruder as they are a different pitch. If you look in one of the pictures, you can see where one print the printer stopped, somehow embedded the nozzle in the bed, and extruded plastic in between the layers of the belt. This was the last time I tried with the direct drive setup. </p><p>Here is the parts I used to complete this changeover.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Bearings-Brushless-Cooling-50mm15mm/dp/B08R9G2VDR/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Bearings-Brushless-Cooling-50mm15mm/dp/B08R9G2VDR/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8</a> - part cooling fan, 2 pack, used one since x stop switch is in the way for using a second</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Cooling-Printer-Extruder-Hotend/dp/B07Z2TZC7N/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Cooling-Printer-Extruder-Hotend/dp/B07Z2TZC7N/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8</a> -hot end cooling fan</p><p><a href="https://www.phaetus.com/dragon-hotend-st/" target="_blank">https://www.phaetus.com/dragon-hotend-st/</a> -hotend, notice the rods in the heat block that mount to the frame around the open heatbreak.</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/KLEMCO-Compatible-Multi-Mount-Designed-Creality/dp/B085WFHJFC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YVHKLMLDK542&keywords=klemco&qid=1642442749&s=electronics&sprefix=klemco%2Celectronics%2C56&sr=1-1&th=1" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/KLEMCO-Compatible-Multi-Mount-Designed-Creality/dp/B085WFHJFC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YVHKLMLDK542&keywords=klemco&qid=1642442749&s=electronics&sprefix=klemco,electronics,56&sr=1-1&th=1</a> -mount for hotend. I positioned the slots facing up so the hot end is closer to the bed.</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.ae/Printer-Parts-Accessories-Trianglelab-Thermistor/dp/B086Z5RLB3" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.ae/Printer-Parts-Accessories-Trianglelab-Thermistor/dp/B086Z5RLB3</a> -I used a PT1000 thermistor to replace the stock one since the hotend is setup for this type. This requires a firmware change to change the type of thermistor.</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDWXV77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDWXV77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a> -nozzle, found it by looking for cr-30 compatible nozzles</p><p>I printed 2 2020 M3 t-nuts to mount the extruder</p><p>I used 2 male and 2 female panduit brand connectors for the heater cartridge.</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074LVGVTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074LVGVTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a> -I used male and female JST SM connectors for the fans, and thermocouples.</p><p>Capricorn tubing.</p><p></p><p>I also had to tilt the y axis stop to lower its contact point due to the part cooling fan having a higher profile. This required a much further adjustment of the y axis offset from stock -49.5 to -59.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="rwiggins, post: 340, member: 124"] After having numerous heat breaks break, due to when the printer would finish a part, the hot end would drop enough to bend them, which meant I could use one heat break for one print then would experience the nozzle now hitting parts as it was printing, oozing of material out of cracks in the heat breaks, this is after going through many of them trying to adjust for bed height, stop gcode, realign gantry's and other ideas that did not pan out. I replaced the hot end assembly with a dragon, which has rods to re-enforce the hot end assembly at the heat break, is all metal, and rated for 500C temps. I relocated the extruder to be a bowden setup, using the old volcano block since the nozzle threads match the fitting threads needed for the tubing, I couldn't use the threads meant for the heat break in the extruder as they are a different pitch. If you look in one of the pictures, you can see where one print the printer stopped, somehow embedded the nozzle in the bed, and extruded plastic in between the layers of the belt. This was the last time I tried with the direct drive setup. Here is the parts I used to complete this changeover. [URL]https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Bearings-Brushless-Cooling-50mm15mm/dp/B08R9G2VDR/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8[/URL] - part cooling fan, 2 pack, used one since x stop switch is in the way for using a second [URL]https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Cooling-Printer-Extruder-Hotend/dp/B07Z2TZC7N/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8[/URL] -hot end cooling fan [URL]https://www.phaetus.com/dragon-hotend-st/[/URL] -hotend, notice the rods in the heat block that mount to the frame around the open heatbreak. [URL]https://www.amazon.com/KLEMCO-Compatible-Multi-Mount-Designed-Creality/dp/B085WFHJFC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YVHKLMLDK542&keywords=klemco&qid=1642442749&s=electronics&sprefix=klemco%2Celectronics%2C56&sr=1-1&th=1[/URL] -mount for hotend. I positioned the slots facing up so the hot end is closer to the bed. [URL]https://www.amazon.ae/Printer-Parts-Accessories-Trianglelab-Thermistor/dp/B086Z5RLB3[/URL] -I used a PT1000 thermistor to replace the stock one since the hotend is setup for this type. This requires a firmware change to change the type of thermistor. [URL]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDWXV77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/URL] -nozzle, found it by looking for cr-30 compatible nozzles I printed 2 2020 M3 t-nuts to mount the extruder I used 2 male and 2 female panduit brand connectors for the heater cartridge. [URL]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074LVGVTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/URL] -I used male and female JST SM connectors for the fans, and thermocouples. Capricorn tubing. I also had to tilt the y axis stop to lower its contact point due to the part cooling fan having a higher profile. This required a much further adjustment of the y axis offset from stock -49.5 to -59. [/QUOTE]
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Replaced direct drive with Phaetus/TriangleLab hotend
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