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Something I did, was I removed the small power converter inside the printer, and replaced it with a buck converter. This allows me to adjust the voltage, I set mine to 5.4v https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N3QT628/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After having numerous heat breaks break, due to when the printer would finish a part, the hot end would drop enough to bend them, which meant I could use one heat break for one print then would experience the nozzle now hitting parts as it was printing, oozing of material out of cracks in the...

I haven't yet pulled the power supply apart, but I am assuming there is a potentiometer that can be adjusted for out voltage. For the cord, I bought an extension. I could of cut one and ran it into the pi for power, but laziness prevailed. Their github is updated as of Sept...

I cheated and used normal Cura, there is an old extension to allow you to use belt printers. The settings are like the ones on the "beta" version, but instead is in the top bars instead of being a selection in the side bar. The link is https://github.com/BirthT/BeltPrinterSlicing

I had a few problems with mine as well, I sent a power point to inform them of the issues I found and what I did to fix them. I am an industrial electrician by trade, and its what is usually expected as the lead technician if I had an issue with contracted work so they can document it for future...

good to hear you got it to that point. I had a lot of issues printing PLA( I use 3dfuel, expensive stuff for PLA) but PETG came out a lot better. What was the fix to get it to print correctly?

matches mine, are you using the cura belt printer beta, or using cura without it?

were you able to solve this? if not are you able to (with your hotend off to the side so it does not hit the table) use gcode to move to zero bed height? also did you do a direct copy and paste of entry and exit gcode? I had an issue with that the first time around, due to the copy paste method...

I have a CR-10 V2, a Ender 3 Pro, FLSUN QQ-S Pro(my primary), Kingroon( haven't used yet, 30$ on auction), and Ifactory one with direct drive. the CR-10 V2, Ender 3, FLSUN all have a dragon hotend, and V2 as well as FLSUN are enclosed to allow for nylon and polycarbonate, with an e3d nozzle x...

The filament itself is very flexible, after adjusting heat settings up and down, I added a 25mm purge followed by a 25mm retract to my end gcode. It won't let me repeat print with these settings, but will allow for me to finish my project for the night. I will probably be looking into a bi-metal...

Other settings aside( wasn't shooting for "perfection") illustrating how to use custom supports for parts that will overhang the starting point on the belt without having to do a part rotation and a large support underneath.